Diary of Northern Territory Trip July

August 2000

Day 1 Saturday 22 July, 00:Melbourne to Darwin

Departed Melbourne, flew first leg to Sydney where we had a brief stop over and caught up with Martina and Brian Rear for a couple of drinks at the airport.Next flight destination, Darwin, departed on time, settled in with dinner and drinks and watched the movie (Julia Roberts in Erin Brockovitch).About half way into the three-hour flight we were informed by the flight deck that we had a minor mechanical problem and were diverting to Cairns for repairs.Landed and changed planes instead.Departed once again and landed in Darwin at 1.00 AM.Caught the Shuttle into town and booked into the Carlton 2 hours later then expected.Discovered the room overlooked the pool and not the Bay as expected and requested a change.Change to happen tomorrow.

Day 2 Sunday 23 July, 00:Darwin

Up early for smorgasbord brekky downstairs, huge.Then a long orientation walk (9kms approx.) and a look at the Botanical Gardens. We wound up in the city, then into the local Woolies (Woolworth’s Supermarket owned by Safeway Australia) for supplies, Coke to go with the rum we brought and Bitter Lemon to go with the gin, some crisps (potato chips) and brekky yogurt.During our stroll back to the hotel we passed Rourke’s Drift, a nice restaurant and watering hole with a lovely beer garden that I had seen on the net.Well we had to check it out, so a couple of pints later we continued our treck.Back to the hotel and a room change.Now overlooking the bay from the top floor and it’s a great view.Changed for dinner (didn’t change at all, remember we’re in Darwin where boots, shorts and a short sleeve shirt is neat casual dress for dinner!).Down the street we went, after checking out a few menus we settled on the Hog’s Breath (across from the Sizzler) as they had an outdoor eating area (most do, I just liked the name).Lovely meal and a casual stroll back to the hotel.

Day 3 Monday 24 July, 00:Darwin

Picked up a hire car from Hertz just around the corner and set about investigating some of the local sites. Trying to work out where we might go for our evening “tea” we drove over to Cullen Bay a couple of K’s from the Esplanade where we were staying.Cullen Bay is a new marina (we tried to book an apartment here when organising our trip but they were booked out.If we ever go back it’s certainly the area where we’ll try to book) located behind a sand spit (restaurant row) with the Bay on the outside.After light brekky and coffee we wandered across the road to check out the restaurants over looking the Bay with sunset views.Walking along the footpath was a young 1.5 meter Goanna.After a couple of happy snaps we were off again.One of the sites not available to us on foot yesterday was the big gun out on East Point (the gun must have been out for repair as the mount was empty) and we started to realise how vulnerable our Country was in ‘41’.No matter where we went along the foreshore while in Darwin there were constant reminders of the War and it’s effect on our Far North.We visited the race course at Fannie Bay as the Darwin Cup (horse race) was just a couple of weeks off.I was surprised to find that the track was an “oiled sand” surface.Back to the hotel to “dress for dinner”(!!) and walked down to Rorke’s Drift for dins.

Day 4 Tuesday 25 July, 00:Darwin

Drove down the Stuart Highway to Litchfield to visit the Exotic Fruit farm only to discover that “Bookings Are Essential” as the tour begins at 9.30 AM.The next chance was Thursday morning, so we “Booked” to return.The folks were very helpful, when we told them we were off to the Majestic Orchid farm they asked if we had booked, naturally we hadn’t, they rang and booked us for the 12.30 PM tour.So off we went.The Litchfield Pub was next to the orchid farm so we had a bite of lunch prior to the tour.The orchids were flowering en-mass, the plants were mostly Dendrobium, more happy snaps.After the tour we decided to follow our tour guide’s suggestion to visit the Darwin Dam (Darwin’s water supply) on the Darwin River just up the road, and on the way saw some beautiful Cycads and Termite mounds, more happy snaps.On our way back we stopped off at the Darwin Air Museum adjacent to the airport.It houses one of only two B-52’s outside the U.S.A.It is on permanent loan and housed in a purpose built structure because of it’s size.Very impressive!We could hear an RAAF fighter taking off next door as the airport is shared commercial and military and were advised that it was the start of a massive joint International military night exercise “Pitch Black” which was to last two weeks.Naturally following our visit we had to drive around the corner to the end of the runway and watch a few take off (like many locals were doing!).Back to the hotel for a couple of drinks by the pool, then “dress for dinner” and off to Cullen Bay for a Mexican meal, margaritas and a beautiful sunset, more happy snaps.I think that it is fair to now say that our happy snaps for the trip totaled 19 rolls of 24 exposures and 95 % were keepers, I have included just a few for flavour.

Day 5 Wednesday 26 July, 00:Darwin

Following our normal brekky of yogurt mixed with cereal in our room, we were off to check out our surrounds with another walking tour of Darwin.Straight across the road from our hotel was a beautiful foreshore park full of exotic palms, bougainvillea’s, fig trees and numerous tropical plant species of which I was unfamiliar but eager to discover.Walking south (it took Pat a few days to orient her directions as what seemed to be north was actually west as that was where the sun was setting!!) towards the city we came across a beautifully presented War Memorial surrounded by plaques representing the various fighting groups of Australia.After shopping in the city Mall for a few pressies, we walked back to the hotel picked up the camera and strolled across the road to the park again this time turning north to Doctors Gully the site of a WW 2 Catalina Flying Boat base.It is now a protected reserve where you can (after an admission fee) take some slices of bread or buns and hand feed heaps of species of wild fish that come in on high tide every day for a feed, it’s amazing.Back to the hotel for laundry chores and a lazy time by the pool with a couple drinks.Drove to Cullen Bay for dins, first stop was at the Mexican for margueritas and photos of the sunset, a carbon copy of the one we had witnessed the night before, then across the road to the Japanese Teppanyaki restaurant for dinner under the stars over looking the marina.

Day 6 Thursday 27 July, 00:Darwin

Down the Stuart Highway to Litchfield once again to visit the Exotic Fruit farm.Well, what an interesting place, little Helen West, the owner, was our very knowledgeable, hard working tour guide, and around the grounds we went being pursued by this large goose trying to shout Helen down with her loud squawks, we were hooting with laughter, finally Helen gave her some bread and that quieted her down for awhile.Everything in the way of tropical fruit you can and wouldn’t imagine as well including a Vanilla Orchid vine and a cinnamon bark tree.The list of trees is enormous, I’ll just include a few here.Bignay, Black Sapote, Rambutan (smells vile but tastes somewhat like vanilla custard), Tree Grape, Breadfruit (bland and boring), Yellow Jackfruit, Sweetsop, Soursop, and one not to leave out.Synsepalum dulcificum Daniell called the “Miracle Fruit” as it effects your taste buds wherein after eating one berry and waiting for a minute, taking a bite of fresh lemon or lime it tastes sweet.One of the lasses that works at the farm, took some of these “Magic fruit” to the local pub one evening to show them off, she made the mistake of eating one prior to ordering a schooner of beer, well it made the beer taste sweet and put her off beer for the evening, ha.Next stop was the Northern Territory Wildlife park just down the road.As you might have guessed by now, we are in the practice of creating our own tours.A bite of lunch and a brisk walk around the well marked trails to view the flora and fauna with an ultimate goal of being at the amphitheatre at 3.30 for the “Birds of Prey” demonstration.It was the highlight of the afternoon, viewing some majestic birds including the second largest B of P in the NT, a Sea Eagle (magnificent!) as well as whistling and black Kites (locals that hang around for a feed) a Barn Owl and the show stopper, a Buzzard Hawk, that set about breaking a large Styrofoam egg provided by the handler, the hawk picked up a rock (a bit smaller than a golf ball) in it’s beak and hurled it down on the egg numerous times until it broke and exposed the contents, a favourite morsel for it’s efforts.The crowd was delighted.Apparently this is instinctive as it was not taught, these birds love eggs, or rather their contents.Dins tonight was at the famous Mindil Beach market and yet another sunset on the beach.After a walk around to view the numerous types of food stalls (Thai, Indian, Malaysian, Chinese Swiss, Italian), we started grazing; a chicken kebab, a fresh tropical fruit drink, followed by some Swiss Raclette, next was walk over a small dune to a view of the setting sun over Fannie Bay, then back to the market, winding up with a large dessert crepe.After a once around the market to view the many stalls lit by candles, lanterns etc. with homemade wares/souvenirs/clothes/paintings on offer, and a couple of purchases we called it a day.

Day 7 Friday 28 July, 00:Darwin

We walked the Esplanade to the War Memorial, then down the winding footpath away from the elevated park, to an area below high cliffs which contained tunnels for fuel storage, developed during the war for protection against bombing by the Japanese but were never used.From there we walked down to the Wharf area, that we had already visited in the car, in search of a “Tall Ship” that had arrived earlier in the day.Discovered that it was on an adjacent wharf with no access at that time.We had a light lunch of “Barra” chips and an iced coffee then a look at the Oz Navy “Sea Cat” Jervis Bay tied up on the wharf.Off the wharf and up the hill to the city, past the ruins of the old stone post office that was destroyed during Cyclone Tracey on Christmas Eve 1974.Drove to the Darwin Museum at Fannie Bay which was great with the local war history well presented, and amazing display of photos, furniture and sounds of the destruction of Cyclone Tracey.Viewed displays of typical housing before Tracey, and how changes were made, during the rebuilding.Very informative about this major tragedy in the top end.

Day 8 Saturday 29 July, 00:Darwin to Kakadu

Down the Stuart Highway again, this time we turn off on the Arnhem Highway on our 260 km trek to Kakadu.First stop was at the “Jumping Crocodile” boat excursion on the Adelaide river.What a hoot, just Pat, I and one other on this double decked boat with the skipper, John, and a boat hand, a pleasant aboriginal lass Amy who was to feed the crocs and some of the local Whistling Kites who followed us along the river, pieces of lamb.I’m getting ahead of myself.The highlight of the stop!!?While were we waiting for the Boat to depart (the skipper was having his brekky), we were having a chat to the woman behind the counter. The question came up about snakes and whether we liked them.Pat and I politely said “no, not really”, (what Pat meant was “no f…king way”, “are you out of your f...king mind?” but we all know that Pat wouldn’t swear) the lady continued to exhort the fine attributes of these reptiles and asked if we would like to see her pet Children’s Python, we said OK and with that the woman lifted the smoky coloured hinged plastic lid on the record player next to Pat and picked up this “cute” little (50 cm) python.I’m here to tell you that if I hadn’t been there I would not have believed it, Pat actually touched and petted the cute little “bugger” (after much talking by the lady and while holding it’s head at Pat’s insistence).Next, a vertical padded roll was lifted, again next to where Pat was standing, and a “nice” 120 cm Queensland Children’s Python was exposed, touching was again on and we watched “them” have a drink from a saucer of water, fascinating to say the least.Next Amy was out on the landing with her pet Long Necked Tortoise, Pat commented “now there’s a reptile that I can tolerate”.Now back to the boat trip, the Crocs along the river banks were unbelievable and to witness some of these “buggers” swim (probably three to four times Michael Klim’s sprint speed) out to the boat and raise three-quarters of their body length out of the water to clamp their jaws, faster than one can blink, on to these dangling pieces of lamb.Back on the road again with the sobering thought that any body of water that we may come across over the next few days (aside from the odd swimming pool, after checking) would have to be considered Croc infested. It was stated that throughout this area (including Kakadu and Arnhem Land) that the crocodiles are so plentiful that there are approx. one Croc about every 100 metres of shoreline and any two spotted together are usually male and female as the males are extremely aggressive and territorial.The Toyota Camry V6 with cruise control, on this two lane, Ø speed limit (all open highways in the NT have no speed limit) highway, was a pleasure to drive (almost as good as our 626).Cruise on at 145 km and the k’s whizzed by, soon we were slowed by the entrance to Kakadu, paid our fees and off to the South Alligator River and the Kakadu Resort.After checking in and finding our room, (this three and a half star pub could barely rate one and a half stars if you squint with the drapes pulled and the lights off) unpacking and adjusting the air-cond, we went back on the road and drove the 40 km to Jabiru the main town in Kakadu built for the miners and employees of the Ranger uranium mine.Out to the airport to book Mondays scenic flight, then back to town and had a “sticky beak” (a “Captain Cook”, look) into the Gagudju Crocodile Hotel, (tried to book there two months earlier but couldn’t get three consecutive nights, don’t book anywhere else unless you are camping!!) nice pub, real three and a half stars, had a beer and moved on.Drove the 40 km back to South Alligator River and the overrated Kakadu Resort.Dins ordinary and limited wine list “truck delivery late, hopefully next couple of days, not sure”.

Day 9 Sunday 30 July, 00:Kakadu

(Burke and Wills (early Oz explorers) moved in upstairs last night heavy boots and all, neighbors next door were both communicating in German without their hearing aids in at 5.30 this morning – pure hell little sleep!)Left early this morning and drove up the Arnhem Highway to the Kakadu Highway and 80 km’s south to Cooinda and the Yellow Waters Billabong, for a boat tour.This early morning (9.30 AM for a one hour trip) tour was absolutely fantastic.We saw heaps of bird life, some beautiful water lilies, pink lotus, the black necked stork “Jabiru” and the ever present salt water crocodile, it was warming up and they were leaving the water.The guide informed us that earlier on the Sunrise tour that not many Croc’s were spotted.On our tour we saw Croc’s everywhere, in the water, on the banks and even on an exposed large tree root, sunning themselves. Then drove to the Warradjan Cultural Centre for a really interesting look around the exhibits telling of past and present aboriginal living styles and many dreaming stories.Then on to do the Norlangie Rock Walk to view the majestic escarpments and fascinating X-ray style Rock Art. We drove back to Jabiru and a visit to the Bowali Visitor Centre which housed a theatre to view informative films of aboriginal culture, the land and its’ history as well as helping with information on things to do and see in Kakadu.

Day 10Monday 31 July, 00:Kakadu

This morning drove back into Jabiru early (when you are housed 40 km’s from the hub, (Jabiru in this case) your days are long with many treks by auto, so Pat organised our days’ touring into specific areas where there were 3 or 4 places of interest to explore in the one vicinity around the Park each of the days we were there) and out to the airport(turn right at the end of the Arnhem Highway on to the Ranger Mine property, funny thing that) for our Kakadu Scenic Air flight in a six place Cessna C207 (guess who sat in the “right” seat).Our one hour flight took us over the Ranger Mine and up north over Arnhem Land.They take these flights up and away from the normal tourist areas depending on the time of year.We returned via the East Alligator River and were kept informed during the flight via headsets and CD narrated by the Owner/Operator (since 1979) and it was really interesting.Following the flight and some happy snaps with the pilot, we left the aerodrome and headed back to Jabiru, and went north 35 km’s to the “Border Store” to organise ourselves for a boat cruise on the East Alligator River. With time to spare we took the 4 km monsoon walk adjacent to the East Alligator River, just north of where we went later.While on this walk we visited one of the many viewing platforms and spotted a large “saltie” in the river swimming across from us, our first sighting of a Croc while not on some sort of tour.Again we were made to realise that this peaceful murky water had all the potential to be lethal with these killing machines lurking about.The Guluyambi Aboriginal Culture Cruise located back down the road on the East Alligator River (border between Kakadu and Arnhem Land) was our next stop.This boat cruise differed from “Yellow Water” in that only two boats were used instead of 10-12 and local aboriginal fellows were our guides.Their (2 guides on the boat) narrative included heaps of information concerning the native flora and it’s use in the native culture, sharing some of their local language, culture, music (great “Digge”) and use of some of their hunting implements.After the cruise we continued up the road for the sunset at Ubirr Rock and some of the better rock art (X-ray style paintings) in the area.Walked up to the top where we listened to a ranger exhort the beauty of the area and viewed some of the far reaching vistas.Then a spectacular sunset, followed by the hike down and drive back in the dark to the pub (Kakadu Resort) dressed down for dins(!!) (wine shipment still hadn’t arrived, didn’t bother, Bundie and Coke was the call) tour bus in, the restaurant was chockers, (chock-a-block – full) so we ordered the beer battered Barra and chips, it came to us fairly quickly and was the best meal that we had while staying at this shocking pub.Back to the room relatively early as tomorrow was the big drive back to Darwin and then the flight to Alice Springs.

As we are leaving the “Top End”, I must at this time make comment on the use of fire in the bush up here.At first I thought that it was curious that so much of the country appeared to be recently burned anywhere from a week ago to six months ago.This act of intentional fire setting in forests and woodlands is traditional.This keeps the tall grasses brought on by the “Wet” season in control.I quote from one of our books on Kakadu: “Fire favours species of plants which can tolerate heat, scorching and even being partly burnt.So in Kakadu, as in much of Australia’s tropical north, with its long, hot dry season and its gravelly, sandy soils, frequent fires reinforce adaptations that already existed.As a consequence fires as a rule do no permanent damage to the woodlands and forests.Every wet season they are regenerated and the same species as before the fire grow vigorously again.None is lost.Only in Australia are there such fire-resistant environments.Fires in conifer or hardwood forests in Europe and North America, for example, destroy them and they take centuries, not just one wet season, to regrow to their original state.”

Day 11 Tuesday 1 August, 00:Kakadu - Darwin - Alice Springs

Up early and drove back to Darwin airport.Checked-in the hire car and while waiting for our flight to Alice Springs we were able to watch “Operation Pitch Black” in full swing.F-111’s, Fa-18’s Hornet’s, MRCA Tornado’s, KC-135 Tankers and many more, it was a real air show.Of course the commercial air traffic had to hold back so everything was running a little late, I didn’t mind as I was thrilled with the show.Into Alice Springs, off to our pub Lasseters Casino via shuttle.After checking in we went down to the Casino and put a few coins through the Pokies and had drinks.Laundry chores were started.Went to din’s at the Irish pub in the Casino, drinks, a nice bottle of red, good meal and early night.

Day 12Wednesday 2 August, 00:Alice Springs-Finke River

Up early for 10 hour, 4 wheel drive tour (a large 21 seat Mercedes Benz four-wheeled drive bus) to Hermannsburg Settlement, home of famous Aboriginal artist Albert Namatjira, and a drive up the mainly dry bed of the Finke River (one of the oldest rivers in the world) and on to Palm Valley for a walk.Palm Valley was beautiful and showed plenty of signs of the massive rains that fell earlier this year (they had 500 mm in just three months annual average is 150mm), the plus for us was that many wild flowers were in bloom and the land was bright with colour.More Cycads (in Cycad Gorge on our drive out of the valley), I didn’t realise that we had so many native to Oz, - great.The massive 4X4 bogged a couple of times and we (the blokes) were sort of (I stayed in my seat for the first bog down) obliged to assist (on the second one, out I went to help), no worries as it was good fun.

Day 13Thursday 3 August, 00:Alice Springs to Kings Canyon

Hire car delivered, Ford Falcon no cruise control (fine all up but wouldn’t own one), checked out, drove to town for a walk around Alice, drive to Kings Canyon “Watarrka” via the Stuart and Lasseter Highways and Luritja Road 430 km’s.Good run, was impressed by the show of wild flowers, Pat had me stop a number of times to capture them on film, worth it as the blossoms were totally unexpected and a bonus.Arrived and asked for a room with a better view than offered and was upgraded to one with a terrific view looking out from the verandah at Carmichael Craig.After settling in, walked out to the boardwalk across from reception to view the sunset reflecting off the Craig.All during our trip along the highway Pat kept saying “I wish that we could see some “Sturt Peas” well all along the boardwalk we were surrounded by Sturt’s Pea in full bloom.We had picked up some German sausage, crisps, crackers, cheese and dips while in Alice, so out to the deck for drinks and nibblies and a peaceful evening under a pitch black sky full of brilliant stars and nearly a new moon.Bliss!

Day 14Friday 4 August, 00:Kings Canyon - Ayers Rock (Uluru)

Greeted the day as witnesses to a beautiful sunrise from the deck.Down to –2C over night, checked out, filled up with petrol (a whopping A$1.23/ltr) walked the Kings Canyon rim (6 long hard kms!) and was totally impressed with the beauty and grandeur of the entire area.A steep walk up to the rim and walk around the top displayed surprising views of beautiful flora and impressive geology, more Cycads, bonsai native trees and waterholes surrounded by native plants and trees.Drove to Ayers Rock Resort “Uluru” by going back across Luritja Road and back on to the Lasseter Highway 320 km’s.Booked into the Desert Gardens Hotel in the Resort, and again had to request a change of room as the view of Uluru was not 100% as booked (obstructed by a large bush that split the rock, so we could only see the ends).New room’s view was unobstructed and magnificent.Witnessed those renowned changing colours of the rock with the setting sun.

Day 15Saturday 5 August, 00:Uluru

A brief note on the sites in this National Park is worth a mention and I again Quote from one of our books:“Uluru (Ayers Rock) is some 9.4 km’s in circumference and it rises approximately 335 metres above the surrounding plain (863 metres above sea level).Kata Tjuta (Olgas) includes some 36 rock domes, one of which is taller than Uluru, rising about 500 metres above the surrounding plain or 1066 metres above sea level.”Drove to Olgas “Kata Tjuta” 55 km’s from the resort, stopped at a viewing platform at the end of a long boardwalk for photos then drove on to the parking area for the climb to the Valley of the Winds, it was a good walk but nothing like or as beautiful as Kings Canyon “Watarrka”, took plenty of happy snaps.Drove back towards the Resort and went for a drive around “the rock”.In the late afternoon, we were picked up and taken out to a site, by bus, for our evening experience of “Sounds of Silence” dinner.Most of the evening (4 hour experience) was nice but, come dinner, our table of six was not called up, quite obviously overlooked, to serve ourselves to “A sumptuous Northern Territory feast of barramundi, kangaroo, emu, crocodile and bush salads”, we then brought it to the attention of the staff, that all that was left was a bit of chicken??, emu and a smattering of vegetables.For this we paid A$105.00 per person??I could not help myself and stated to the chef and duty manager that it simply “was not good enough”, we were offered some pasta, I laughed and returned to our table plate-less and fuming.Pat then spoke to the duty manager in her nice demanding tones that something more had to be done.Duty manager was on the phone back to the Resort speaking to the Food and Beverage manager for the entire resort.We were then informed that barra was to be brought out and provided for us.It was served by the duty manager flanked by the F & B manager who was then dutifully informed by us that it was the entire table of six that was left without not just the two of us, all was shared by our table.The F & B manager provided us with his business card and requested that upon our return to the Resort that all the complimentary drinks we would like for the evening would be at his expense.We accepted the card but did not go to the bar as that was not our wish or style, all that we wanted and demanded was a nice meal as advertised.Following dessert (dessert was held up awaiting the completion of our supplementary meal as we were to be the first served) the candle lights were extinguished and the entertainment began with an astronomer using a powerful spotlight pointed the various planets (actually the light was so powerful that the shades were being pulled down on Venus), stars and constellation’s, a virtual tour of the clear Southern night skies.Back on to the bus and back to the Resort and to our room, the end of a perplexing evening to say the least.In that same vain I should also point out that we made the best of an awkward situation and enjoyed the evening and the company of the other four sharing our table.

Day 16Sunday 6 August, 00:Uluru

Up early (6.55a.m.) and into the car for a drive to the east end of the rock for an Uluru Sunrise, following a few happy snaps we drove around to the parking lot adjacent to the “rock climb” (we chose not to climb the rock as the “traditional owners” have requested that people should not climb the rock as it a sacred place) and commenced our circumnavigation of the rock via the 9.4 km footpath.The walk, at a casual pace, took us 2.5 hrs.The walk was inspiring and a humbling experience.There were numerous sacred sites which were located behind wire fences which allowed viewing but were posted in many languages that filming or photography of any kind was prohibited.Later in the day we were picked-up for our 30 minute scenic helicopter ride over to Kata Tjuta (Olgas) and back to Uluru circling most of the way around both, eluding the sacred areas, prior to returning to the airport flying over the Resort. (front seat again, Pat is so kind, in a Jet Ranger, pilot, a lovely female from Melbourne, and 4 passengers)Lovely meal in the restaurant (Morton Bay Bugs, similar in taste and flavour to Cray’s) bottle of nice red and off to our room for an early night as we are off to Alice in the morning.

Day 17Monday 7 August, 00:Uluru to Alice Springs

Up early (temperature around 2C but day up to 22C) witnessed last sunrise having breakfast on our balcony, then over to the shops for some last minute gift purchases, checked-out and on the road once again.Made good time as the 450 km run back to Alice Springs took us just over 3 hours, even with the stop to take some happy snaps of a couple of Brumbies (wild horses).Went to buy another carry bag, for the overflow of gear bought over the 3 weeks, for even though it was a public holiday for the Northern Territory because of Darwin Cup day (held at the Fanny Bay Race Course) K-Mart was open.Booked into Lasseters once again, into a room with great views of the pool with the MacDonnell Ranges in the background.Drove to town for dins and found quite a few restaurants closed so we chose Chinese, not that flash for our last night, but it suited us both.

Day 18Tuesday 8 August, 00:Alice Springs – Adelaide (Ghan)

Up early enough to take a beaut photo of the sunrise and out by 9 AM for more last minute gift shopping, and filled up petrol tank, dropped off baggage at the train station and returned hire car.Last walk around Alice, bought a couple of books and off to the train station once again, after a few happy snaps of the train we boarded the Ghan for our trip home.After settling into our compartment we were off to the Lounge Car for drinks and nibblies, after all I wasn’t driving.Back to our compartment, drinks in hand, for some serious reading from our newly acquired books and more fantastic views out the window.Dinner was lovely.Off to bed for an early night.I quote once again, this time from one of our brochures: “The Ghan.It’s an odd name for a train, but in Australian history it is a living legend.For it is the ultimate journey to the heart (in our case, from the heart) of the continent.After countless attempts by man and beast to break through the waterless desert into the red centre, a bright South Australian came up with an excellent idea.A hundred and fifty years ago the first camels were imported along with their handlers from Afghanistan and Aussies soon shortened their name to ‘Ghan’.Perfectly adapted for traveling long distances through the hot, inhospitable interior, the early explorers and later the telegraph linesmen used camels to blaze a permanent trail into the interior.Boarding the Ghan you’ll experience one of the most fascinating great rail journeys of the world.You’ll marvel at the mighty MacDonnell Ranges, the spectacular colours of the outback, the spinifex plains and salt pans of the vast interior on this epic adventure.”

Day 19Wednesday 9 August, 00:Adelaide to Melbourne

Brekky at 7 AM in Dining Car.On schedule (9 AM) the Ghan arrives in Adelaide, picked up luggage and boarded a shuttle to the airport for a flight to Melbourne and home around 2.45 p.m.